Slicer Setup Guide

The 4 settings that prevent warping, lifting, and failed prints — for every printer and slicer.

Skip the manual setup. Download our pre-configured profile — import it once and every print uses the right settings automatically.

⬇ PrusaSlicer Profile ⬇ OrcaSlicer Profile
PrusaSlicer Setup
Works for Prusa Core One, MK4, MK3S+, and any printer using PrusaSlicer
Quickest option: Download the profile above → in PrusaSlicer go to File → Import → Import Config… → select the downloaded .ini file. Done — all settings applied automatically.
1
Turn off the fan for the first 5 layers
The cooling fan blasting cold air on the first warm layers is the #1 cause of warping. Turning it off for the first few layers lets the plastic bond to the bed properly before cooling begins.
Filament Settings → Cooling → Disable fan for the first X layers
Set to: 5
2
Add a 10mm brim
A brim creates a flat skirt of extra plastic around your print that anchors the edges to the bed. Wider = stronger grip. Essential for any print longer than 100mm.
Print Settings → Skirt and brim → Brim type + Brim width
Brim type: Outer brim only
Brim width: 10mm
3
Slow down the first layer
Printing slower gives each first-layer line more time to press into the bed and bond. Fast first layers skip across the surface and don't stick.
Print Settings → Speed → First layer speed
Set to: 15 mm/s
4
Enable Draft Shield
Draft shield prints a wall around the entire model that blocks cold air drafts. Especially useful if your printer is near an AC vent or open window.
Print Settings → Skirt and brim → Draft shield
Set to: Enabled
Note: click the padlock icon next to Draft shield first to unlock the setting if it appears greyed out.
💡 Still lifting after all 4 steps? Use a washable glue stick (Elmer's purple stick) — thin coat on the bed, let dry 30 seconds, print. Wipes off with water. This is what print farms use for long PLA parts.
OrcaSlicer Setup
Works for Bambu, Prusa, Creality, and any printer using OrcaSlicer
Quickest option: Download the OrcaSlicer profile above → in OrcaSlicer go to File → Import → Import Configs… → select the downloaded .json file.
1
Turn off the fan for the first 5 layers
The cooling fan is the #1 cause of warping on long prints. Keeping it off for the first 5 layers lets the plastic fully bond to the bed.
Filament → Cooling → Close fan the first X layers
Set to: 5
2
Add a 10mm brim
Anchors the edges of long prints to the bed so they can't lift as the plastic cools and contracts.
Process → Support → Brim type + Brim width
Brim type: Outer brim only
Brim width: 10mm
3
Slow down the first layer
More time on the bed = better adhesion. A slow first layer is the difference between a print that sticks and one that pops off.
Process → Speed → Initial layer speed
Set to: 15 mm/s
4
Raise first layer bed temperature
A slightly hotter bed on the first layer improves adhesion before cooling to normal temp for the rest of the print.
Filament → Temperature → Initial layer bed temperature
PLA: 65°C first layer → 60°C rest
PETG: 90°C first layer → 85°C rest
Cura Setup
Works for Creality, Anycubic, Artillery, and any printer using Cura
1
Turn off the fan for the first 3 layers
The most important setting. Search "fan" in Cura's settings search box to find it quickly.
Search: "Regular Fan Speed at Layer" → set to layer 4 or higher
Also set Initial Fan Speed to 0%
2
Add a 10mm brim
Cura's brim is easy to find and very effective.
Build Plate Adhesion → Build Plate Adhesion Type → Brim
Brim width: 10mm
Brim line count: 12
3
Slow down the first layer
Cura controls first layer speed as a percentage of print speed.
Speed → Initial Layer Speed
Set to: 15 mm/s
Speed → Initial Layer Travel Speed
Set to: 100 mm/s
4
Raise bed temperature for first layer
Material → Build Plate Temperature Initial Layer
PLA: 65°C
PETG: 90°C
Bambu Studio Setup
For Bambu Lab X1C, P1S, P1P, A1, and A1 Mini
Good news: Bambu printers have an enclosed build chamber that naturally reduces warping. But long flat prints (200mm+) can still lift. These settings help.
1
Turn off the part fan for the first 3 layers
Filament → Cooling → No cooling for the first X layers
Set to: 3
2
Add a 10mm brim
Process → Support → Brim → Outer brim only
Brim width: 10mm
3
Slow down initial layer speed
Process → Speed → Initial layer speed
Set to: 20 mm/s
4
Enable auxiliary fan (X1C/P1S only)
The auxiliary fan on enclosed Bambu printers circulates warm air — keeping it on helps bed adhesion for long prints.
Filament → Cooling → Auxiliary fan speed
Set to: 70%

Common Questions

My print still lifts even with a brim. What else can I do?
Use a washable glue stick (Elmer's purple school glue stick) on the bed. Thin coat, let dry 30 seconds, then print. This is the single most effective fix for stubborn long prints. Wipes off with water. Costs $1. Print farms use it every day.
What's the right bed temperature for each filament?
PLA: 60°C (65°C first layer)
PETG: 85°C (90°C first layer)
ABS / ASA: 100–110°C
TPU: 40–60°C
Too cold = won't stick. Too hot = print slides around.
The filament sticks to my nozzle tip during printing. Why?
This usually means the print is lifting off the bed and the nozzle is dragging through it, picking up molten plastic. Fix the warping first (brim + fan off) and this will stop. If it happens on a flat print, your Live Adjust Z may be too close — raise the nozzle slightly so it's not scraping.
My first layer looks like spaghetti — lines aren't sticking together.
Your nozzle is too far from the bed. During the first layer, adjust Live Adjust Z (on the printer's screen or in the slicer) — lower the nozzle until the first layer lines look flat and fused together, not round and separate. Save the value when it looks right.
Where does the brim go after printing?
The brim peels off by hand after printing. With a 10mm brim you may need to use a flat spatula or deburring tool to get under the edge. Takes 30 seconds and leaves a clean edge.
How do I use PrusaSlicer's File → Import to load a downloaded profile?
In PrusaSlicer: File → Import → Import Config… → navigate to your Downloads folder → select the .ini file → click Open. The profile will appear in your Print Settings and Filament dropdowns immediately. Select "Filament3D PLA Anti-Warp" from the dropdown before slicing.